Ancient Whisky

Distilleries · Pennsylvania rye

The man whose Treasury enforced Prohibition had owned a third of Old Overholt.

A farm still from 1810, a grandson who kept the books and became Henry Clay Frick, a sermon about Andrew Mellon, whisky pulled out on forged permits, and an impeachment count called "Whisky Business."

By Bryen Beglinger

1895 trade ad with an engraved oval portrait of Abraham Overholt, white haired, beside the words Established 1810, Overholt, Pennsylvania Pure Rye Whiskey, The Finest in the World
Abraham Overholt's face on an 1895 trade ad, with the founding date the family always claimed.Pacific Wine and Spirit Review, San Francisco, 1895, volume 34. San Francisco Public Library copy, Internet Archive, pwsr34171895221895sanfrich.

On a Sunday night in February 1921, a Methodist minister in Pittsburgh named Daniel L. Marsh preached a sermon with an unusual title: "Does A. W. Mellon Own the Overholt Distillery?" Andrew Mellon was a few days from becoming Secretary of the Treasury, the department that ran Prohibition enforcement. Marsh said Mellon had talked to him, and he told the congregation what Mellon said. Henry Clay Frick had talked him into buying a third of the distillery. "This was in 1880."

The New York Herald ran it the next morning: "Mellon Not Now Distillery Owner, Explains Pastor." Whisky would leave the Overholt warehouses on forged permits, Mellon would end up on a witness stand, and a congressman would put the distillery into articles of impeachment. What became of all that whisky is the last section.

1800 to 1853: a farm still

Henry Overholt brought his family west from Bucks County to Jacobs Creek in Westmoreland County around 1800. The county history of 1882 says his son Abraham "established a small still on his farm in 1810, which used only a bushel and a half of grain per day." That 1810 date is the one the company printed on its ads for the next century.

Abraham did well. In 1838 he built the brick house that still stands at West Overton. In 1853, by the Fayette County history, he put up a second distillery at Broad Ford on the Youghiogheny River, big enough for a hundred bushels of grain a day. In 1859 the family built a six story brick distillery and mill at West Overton, a hundred feet long.

Two story brick house with dark shutters, a small columned porch, two chimneys and a white picket fence on a lawn
The house Abraham Overholt built at West Overton in 1838, photographed for the federal survey in 1990.Martin Stupich for the Historic American Buildings Survey, 1990, HABS PA-5658-1. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.
Long three story brick building with rows of small windows, faded painted lettering across the front and a US flag by the door
The 1859 distillery and mill at West Overton. The faded lettering across the brick reads West Overton.Martin Stupich for the Historic American Buildings Survey, 1990, HABS PA-5659-1. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.

1869 and 1870: the bookkeeper

Abraham's daughter Elizabeth married John W. Frick. Their son, Henry Clay Frick, was born at West Overton in 1849. In 1869 his grandfather made him chief bookkeeper at Broad Ford, at a thousand dollars a year.

Abraham died on January 15, 1870. Seven weeks later his grandson wrote out a condolence letter on the company's letterhead, which advertised "Flour, and Youghiogheny Whiskey." A year after that, Frick and two partners built coke ovens at Broad Ford. That was the start of the fortune that made him one of the richest men in America.

Handwritten letter on a printed letterhead reading A. Overholt and Co., Manufacturers of Flour, and Youghiogheny Whiskey, Broad Ford, dated March 9, 1870
A condolence letter on the distillery's letterhead, March 9, 1870, written and initialed by the bookkeeper, Henry Clay Frick.Facsimile in George Harvey, Henry Clay Frick, the Man, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1928, plate facing page 28. Internet Archive, henryclayfrickma03harv.

1880 to 1916: Frick, Mellon and the brand

Frick bought into the distillery around the end of the 1870s. Mellon, by his own account, took a third in 1880. A manager named Mauck held the rest and ran it, and Marsh said the two millionaires let him keep two thirds of the profits for doing it.

The whisky became Old Overholt. The company used Abraham's portrait on its ads, bottled in bond after the 1897 law allowed it, and registered the name as a trade mark in 1906. In 1910 it ran a centennial ad, 1810 to 1910.

Patent Office trade mark sheet with Old Overholt in script lettering, registered October 23, 1906, signed for A. Overholt and Co.
The Old Overholt name, registered as a trade mark in 1906.Trade mark No. 56,876, A. Overholt & Co., registered October 23, 1906, published in the Official Gazette August 28, 1906. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, LC-DIG-trmk-1t56876.

On November 19, 1905, a warehouse at Broad Ford burned with 810,000 gallons of whisky inside. The wire story put the loss at $4,000,000 and said the plant was "practically owned by H. C. Frick and the Mellons of Pittsburg." Mellon later said the company had not made any whisky since 1916.

Ad for Old Overholt Rye marking 1810 to 1910, Just the Right Smack, A. Overholt and Co., Pittsburgh
The centennial ad, 1810 to 1910. LIFE, May 12, 1910.Advertisement in LIFE, New York, May 12, 1910. Scan and restoration by Mariangela Buch, Internet Archive, OldOverholtRyeWhiskey1910A.

1919 to 1921: a warehouse full of rye

Frick died in December 1919, about six weeks before national Prohibition began. The company went into liquidation. What it still had was whisky, about a million and a half gallons in bond, by the 1921 papers.

When Harding picked Mellon for the Treasury, the Anti-Saloon League went after the connection. In mid February 1921 the papers reported that Mellon had sold his Overholt stock to his brother, R. B. Mellon, and to Frick's estate, $240,000 to each. The assets went to the Union Trust Company of Pittsburgh, a Mellon bank, as trustee. Then came Marsh's sermon. His verdict was that the business "is as dead as a polecat shot by Daniel Boone." A Nevada paper ran a joke cabinet that month, and it listed "For secretary of the treasury Andy Mellon, Old Overholt."

Studio portrait of Andrew Mellon, gray haired with a mustache, seated in a wooden armchair in a three piece suit
Andrew Mellon in 1921, the year he took over the Treasury.Trinity Court Studio, 1921, copyright J346457, not renewed. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, LC-USZ62-56407.
Newspaper headline stack: Mellon Not Now Distillery Owner, Explains Pastor. Once Had a Third Interest in Overholt Plant, as Did H. C. Frick
The New York Herald, the morning after the sermon.The New York Herald, New York, February 28, 1921, page 16. Library of Congress, Chronicling America, LCCN sn83045774.

1920 to 1928: forged permits

Under Prohibition, whisky could leave a bonded warehouse only on a government permit. Between September 1920 and January 1921, a magazine investigation later reported, a man named Morris Goodman withdrew 42,000 gallons from Overholt on permits that turned out to be forged. The forged permits were said to be in the Mellon National Bank. The indictments were dismissed.

In June 1924 Mellon testified at the trial of Gaston Means and said he "had had an interest in the Overholt distillery." The judge would not allow questions about the forged permits. Mellon's public answer was that the company had made nothing since 1916, the assets went to a trustee before he took office, and since then the trustee had sold no whisky "except fifty-three cases to a drug company."

His enemies did not let it go. Former Pennsylvania governor Gifford Pinchot told a temperance congress in 1927 that Mellon was "if not the largest, one of the largest makers of whiskey in America." Senator James Couzens attacked the trust arrangement on the Senate floor in 1928.

1925: sold

In May 1925 the Union Trust sold the distillery and about 1,800,000 gallons to Park & Tilford, the New York grocers. The AP called it "the largest legitimate liquor deal in the United States since prohibition."

1932: "Whisky Business"

In January 1932 Representative Wright Patman of Texas filed articles of impeachment against Mellon. One was headed "Whisky Business." It charged that from March 4, 1921 to October 2, 1928, Mellon "received his share of the proceeds and profits from the sale of distilled whisky." It never came to a vote. In February Mellon was named ambassador to Britain, and the committee dropped it.

1933 and after

In June 1933, months before Repeal, National Distillers bought Overholt and kept it going as Pennsylvania rye. The Broad Ford stillhouse closed in the early 1950s. Beam bought the brand in 1987 and makes it in Kentucky. Old Overholt is often called the oldest continuously maintained American whisky brand, which rests on that 1810 date and a chain of owners that never broke.

1925: an offer to the Public Health Service

Right after buying the whisky in 1925, Park & Tilford offered all 1,800,000 gallons to the United States Public Health Service, at cost. The acting surgeon general wired back that the Public Health Service "was not interested in the proposition."

If you have an old Overholt

Bonded bottles from before Prohibition say "Distilled and Bottled in Bond by A. Overholt & Co., Pittsburgh, Pa." Pints sold during Prohibition went out as medicine. The strip, the size and the label will date yours: run it through How old is this bottle?

Old Overholt, year by year

1810Abraham Overholt starts a small still on his farm at West Overton, Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania, using a bushel and a half of grain a day.
1853The Overholts build a second distillery at Broad Ford on the Youghiogheny River, by the 1882 Fayette County history.
1869Henry Clay Frick, Abraham Overholt's grandson, becomes chief bookkeeper at Broad Ford at a thousand dollars a year.
1880Andrew Mellon buys a third of the Overholt distillery at Frick's urging, by Mellon's own account.
1905On November 19 a Broad Ford warehouse burns with 810,000 gallons of whisky inside.
1906The Overholt company registers Old Overholt as a trade mark.
1921Andrew Mellon becomes Secretary of the Treasury. In February the papers report he sold his Overholt stock to his brother and to Frick's estate.
1925In May the Union Trust Company sells the Overholt distillery and about 1,800,000 gallons of whisky to Park & Tilford of New York.
1932In January Representative Wright Patman files articles of impeachment against Mellon, one headed "Whisky Business."
1933In June, months before Repeal, National Distillers buys Overholt.
1987Beam buys the Old Overholt brand.

Where the sources disagree

When Broad Ford was built. The 1882 Fayette County history says 1853. Later writers say 1854 or 1855.

When Mellon bought in. His own account through Marsh, and the AP in 1925, say 1880. Later writers say 1881 or 1887. This page goes with his.

Who got Frick's share. You will read that Frick left it to Mellon. In 1925 the papers said Frick still owned a third when he died, and it went to his estate.

Whether Mellon really got out. The 1921 sale was reported, not shown, and it went to his brother and a Mellon bank. Patman, Pinchot and Couzens said he kept a stake until 1928. Mellon said he did not.

When National Distillers bought it. The 1933 financial reports say June 1933. You will also see 1932 and 1927.

The numbers. The 1925 sale was reported at $15 million and at more than $18 million. The forged permit total shows up as 42,000 gallons in one account and 8,850 in another. One paper printed 52 cases to the drug company, another 53.

Sources

  1. The New York Herald, February 28, 1921, page 16. loc.gov Source for the Marsh sermon, the 1880 purchase, the management split and the polecat line.
  2. George Dallas Albert, History of the County of Westmoreland, 1882. archive.org Source for the 1810 still, the 1838 house, the 1859 distillery, Abraham's death and the Frick family line.
  3. Franklin Ellis, History of Fayette County, 1882. archive.org Source for Broad Ford in 1853, Frick as bookkeeper, and Frick buying into the firm.
  4. West Overton Village and Museums, History of West Overton. westovertonvillage.org Source for Henry Overholt's move around 1800.
  5. George Harvey, Henry Clay Frick, the Man, 1928. archive.org Source for Frick's salary and the 1870 letter.
  6. Adams County News, Ritzville, Washington, November 22, 1905, page 4, AP. loc.gov Source for the 1905 fire.
  7. The Washington Times, February 13, 1921, page 4. loc.gov Source for the reported sale of Mellon's stock.
  8. American Issue, February 25, 1921, page 2, and Milwaukee Leader, February 14, 1921, page 3. loc.gov Source for Union Trust and the warehouse stock.
  9. Carson City Daily Appeal, February 21, 1921, page 2. loc.gov Source for the joke cabinet.
  10. The Washington Times, April 24, 1924, page 14. loc.gov Source for the forged permits.
  11. Evening Star, Washington, June 6 and June 26, 1924. loc.gov Source for Mellon's testimony and his statement on the trust.
  12. Willmar Tribune, September 7, 1927, page 7. loc.gov Source for Pinchot's speech.
  13. New Britain Herald, March 22, 1928, page 17. loc.gov Source for Couzens.
  14. Evening Star, May 26, 1925, page 22, and Washington Times, May 30, 1925, page 30. loc.gov Source for the Park & Tilford sale and Frick's third.
  15. Milwaukee Leader, May 28, 1925, page 8. loc.gov Source for the Public Health Service answer.
  16. Evening Star, June 1 and June 24, 1933. loc.gov Source for the National Distillers purchase.
  17. Deschler's Precedents, volume 3, chapter 14. govinfo.gov Source for the Patman articles.
  18. David Wondrich, "The Rise and Fall of America's Oldest Whiskey" and "How Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey Lost Its Way," The Daily Beast, 2016. zephr.thedailybeast.com Source for the brand claim and the later history of Broad Ford.